大家好
Man: Hello, boys and girls.
我是提姆费里斯 欢迎收听提姆费里斯秀
This is Tim ferriss, and welcome to "the Tim ferriss show".
今天我们请到了 全球最知名的攀岩者之一
In this episode, we have one of the most recognized climbers in the world,
亚历克斯霍诺德
Alex honnold.
-欢迎你 -感谢邀请
- Welcome to the show. - Alex: Thanks for having me.
亚历克斯 最近有谁让你感到惊艳吗
Tim: Alex, who impresses you right now?
有个叫马克安德雷勒克莱尔的 加拿大小伙子
Alex: This kid Marc-andré leclerc. This Canadian guy.
没多少人听说过他 因为他非常低调
Hardly anyone has heard of him because he's so under the radar.
他独自完成了许多疯狂的高山攀登
He's been doing, like, all kinds of crazy alpine soloing.
-怎样疯狂 -他直接去挑战了
- Tim: What makes it so crazy? - Alex: He just goes out and climbs
全球难度最高的一些高山岩壁
some of the most difficult walls and alpine faces in the world.
可以说是史上最具挑战性的攀岩尝试
The most challenging things that anyone's ever climbed, really.
所以他已经达到下一个境界了
Tim: So he's just next level?
对 真的太夸张了 我不知道
Alex: Yeah, it's, like, so crazy. Like, [don't know.
如果大家想看他攀岩的画面
Tim: And for those people who want to see visuals on this stuff,
我们会找一些影片和连结
we'll grab some video and links...
马克安德雷最有趣的一点
Alex: An interesting thing about Marc-andré
-就是他大部分攀登恐怕都没有影片 -真的吗
is I don't know if there is video of most of the stuff he's doing.
Tim: Oh, really?
他是为了自己而攀登
Alex: Yeah, he's just going out and climbing for himself
非常纯粹 心无旁骛
in such a pure style. It's pretty full on.
23岁时 马克安德雷勒克莱尔
Narrator: At 23 years old, Marc-andré leclerc
已经是新生代中 最无畏的高山攀登者之一
was already one of the boldest alpinists of his generation.
但他的名字却无人知晓
But he was almost completely unknown.
我花了两年时间 跟随这位难以捉摸的攀岩者
Narrator: I spent two years following this elusive climber,
试图记录他的攀登过程
trying to document his ascents,
理解他眼中的狂野冒险
and understand his wild vision of adventure.
跟拍马克的过程中
Narrator: Throughout my journey with Marc,
我总是回想起从小就萦绕在心头的
I kept coming back to these mysteries at the heart of climbing
关于攀岩的核心问题
that have gripped me since I was a kid.
作为在科罗拉多长大的攀岩爱好者
Growing up as a young climber in Colorado,
我儿时的偶像是传奇徒手攀岩者 德里克荷西
I idolized the legendary free-soloist Derek hersey,
他赤手空拳攀登俯瞰城市的峭壁
scaling the cliffs above town with no rope.
只靠一袋镁粉和一双破旧的攀岩鞋
Just a chalk bag and a pair of old climbing shoes.
只要向下望去 就能体会这种完全融入其中的感觉
这感觉真酷
但有一天 德里克在独自攀岩时
Narrator: But one day, Derek was out soloing
从峭壁坠落
and he fell.
德里克荷西于上周去世
Man: Derek hersey was killed last week.
有人以为他曾提前留下遗言 但他只是说
Some people thought he had a death wish, but he said,
“没有别的事 更能让我感觉自己活着”
"there's nothing else that makes me feel so alive."
自那之后 我就一直着迷于
Peter: Ever since then, I've been fascinated
-这些超越了生死的 -我在直升机里
by these larger-than-life figures...
准备好
Getting ready.
不断挑战高山冒险极限的人们
Who push the limits of adventure in the mountains.
我见证过神奇的事迹
Narrator: I've seen some amazing things...
汤米卡德维尔尝试徒手攀登黎明墙
Woman 1: Tommy Caldwell attempting to free climb the dawn wall.
也体验过悲痛
Narrator: And been left to grieve...
迪恩波特不幸离世
Woman: Dean Potter lost his life.
看着朋友们在追求梦想的路上丧命
Narrator: When friends died pursuing their passion
全球最知名的登山家之一
woman 2: One of the world's best-known mountaineers
乌里斯特克在事故中丧生
ueli steck has died in an accident.
经历了20年的拍摄生涯后
Narrator: After 20 years of filming,
我并不确定自己 是否离理解这项运动更近了一步
I'm not sure I've gotten any closer to understanding at all.
要死了
Fucking hell.
你看 完全只靠膝盖顶着
Check out the no-hands knee bar, baby.
亚历克斯 为什么要冒险
Narrator: Alex, why take the risk?
为什么不用绳子
- Why not use a rope? - Uh...
多蠢的问题啊
Those are just dumb questions.
与此同时 攀岩运动发生了翻天覆地的变化
Narrator: Meanwhile, the sport of climbing has changed a lot.
一起去训练吧 走
Let's head to the gym! Boom!
这项曾经属于
Narrator: What was once a rogue activity
（严禁攀岩）
for misfits and vagabonds has hit the big time.
离群者与漂泊者的隐秘活动 如今走向主流
攀岩首次登上奥运舞台
Man: Rock climbing makes its olympic debut.
攀岩者成为了体育巨星
Narrator: Climbers have become superstar athletes...
这显然提高了我的知名度
It's raised my profile a little bit, for sure.
在社群网路上拥有成千上万的追随者
With armies of social media followers.
他们的攀登举世瞩目 掀起热潮
And their ascents are celebrated and hyped.
专业攀岩者 分享他们在圣母峰拍摄的短片
Woman: Professional climbers are sharing Snapchat videos from Everest.
这是圣母峰发型 是全新的潮流
This is hair by Everest. It's a new hashtag, it's a thing.
-圣母峰发型 -是新潮流
- Hair by Everest. - It's a thing.
所以我很惊讶地
So I was surprised to come across an obscure blog post
在一篇无人问津的部落客文章上
看到一个名叫马克安德雷勒克莱尔的 默默无闻的加拿大年轻攀岩者
about an unknown young Canadian climber
by the name of Marc-Andre' leclerc.
他在全球最严酷的环境中 成功攀登了长达一千二百公尺
He had climbed a 4, goo-foot route of rock and ice
布满冰雪与岩石的线路
in one of the harshest environments on earth.
（开瓶器线路 帕塔哥尼亚 托雷峰）
And all by himself.
独自一人
这是前无古人的壮举
This was a monumental feat,
却只有一小批狂热爱好者 在网上为之惊叹
but it was just a handful of close observers freaking out about it online.
（什么叫狠角色 这就是）
（这是天崩地裂等级的攀登）
所以这个人是谁
So, who was this guy?
（马克安德雷勒克莱尔到底是谁 ）
为了找到答案 我动身前往 英属哥伦比亚省的斯阔米什
To find out, I headed up to squamish, British Columbia,
加拿大攀岩圈的心脏地带
the heart of the Canadian climbing scene.
来点甜甜圈吧
Weird-looking donuts, guys
（离群者甜甜圈）
we got some fresh bites for you.
这边有新鲜出炉的
- You wanna buy a donut? - Yeah, sure.
-要买个甜甜圈吗 -好啊
一整个甜甜圈 两块钱
Full donut's two bucks.
（露天淋浴间性爱 ）
初次见到马克时 我不知该如何定义他
Peter: When I first met Marc, I didn't know what to make of him.
这招叫“上天接前空翻”
This is called “a sky hump into a front flip...
Man: Wow.
来一根吗
You want one?
好
All right.
他显然不习惯面对镜头
Peter: He was clearly unaccustomed to being in front of the camera.
-好强的光 -拍一下手
Whoa. That's a crazy light.
Peter: Clap in front of your face.
好 请告诉我们你多大 来自哪里 是做什么的
Cool. So tell us how old you are, where you're from, and what you do.
好 我叫马克安德雷勒克莱尔
Cool. I'm Marc-andré leclerc
来自英属哥伦比亚省的菲沙河谷
and I'm from the Fraser valley, British Columbia,
一直住在英属哥伦比亚省
lived in bc my whole life.
今年23岁
I'm 23 years old
大致来说 我是个攀岩者
and I'm a climber, generally speaking.
对于在加拿大西部长大的 年轻攀岩者来说
Yeah, as a young climber growing up in western Canada,
斯阔米什就是我们心中的圣地
squamish was, like, the place to go.
这里有最容易接近的大型峭壁 有超酷的高难度线路
The most accessible big steep cliff with super-rad hard routes,
这里应该就是攀岩宇宙的中心
the center of the climbing universe, I guess.
马克高中一毕业就搬到了斯阔米什
Peter: Marc had moved to squamish, fresh out of high school,
急切地加入当地最硬核的攀岩者们
eager to join the ranks of the hard-core local climbers.
他搬过来后 你很难不注意到他
Right away, as soon as he moved to town, he was pretty hard to miss
（杰森克鲁克 斯阔米什攀岩者）
because of his crazy, youthful exuberance and stoke.
因为他过于旺盛的精力 总是活力四射
下来换个绳子
Come down and switch the rope.
我当时大概有点呆
Marc: I think I was, like, pretty dorky.
Like, super psyched.
过于亢奋
总是兴致勃勃
And I was always sort of chomping at the bit,
一大早就起床
like, gotta get up early,
一直攀岩 直到指尖流血
like, climb until my fingertips are bleeding.
他从不害怕往下跳
He was not afraid to jump right into the deep end.
不 该死
Oh, no! Oh, shit.
太疯狂了
Man 1: Crazy.
他毫无保留 一心向前
Man 2: He came in just all guns blazing.
我当时想“这孩子不是一般人”
I was like, "this kid's a really special breed."
（威尔斯坦霍普 斯阔米什攀岩者）
他当时年轻而冲动
Man: He was a bit young and brash.
急着宣告自己的存在
You know, it's like, "I'm here," you know what I mean?
（重装机器 攀岩者）
But if you're not young and brash between 17 and about 24,
但是17岁到24岁之间的年轻人 如果不冲动的话
不如死了算了
you might as well shoot yourself,
年轻人就应该冲动
cos that's when people are young and brash.
当时的马克是真正的离群者 身无分文
Will: Marc was just a true dirtbag. Like, seriously broke.
他没有车 甚至没有手机
He didn't have a car, he didn't even have a phone.
我有过一支手机
Marc: I had a phone for a while.
我把它和烟熏鲑鱼一起放在包包里
Left it in a stuff sack with some smoked salmon
结果被一只野狐狸偷走了
and then the phone was stolen by a wild fox.
不是吧
Peter: No way!
我感觉还是不要手机比较好
I feel like maybe I'm just better off without one.
有几年夏天 他就住在一个楼梯井里
For a couple of summers there, he was, like, living in a stairwell.
意外的是 他居然找到一个金发美女
It was surprising when he managed to find a cute blonde girl
和他一起住楼梯井
to live in the stairwell with him.
他的楼梯井里就只有
His stairwell was just, like, a small futon
（布丽特哈灵顿 马克的女友）
at the bottom of the stairwell, like, an entryway.
一个小小的垫子 放在入口处
我住进去之后 里面的装饰逐渐变多了
The longer time I spent there, the more it became decorated.
放上了挂毯和照片
So then, like, he had tapestries and pictures.
他的楼梯井变成了一间休息室
His stairwell became, like, the lounge.
没必要追求奢华的生活
There was no need to live luxuriously,
我们想要的就是攀岩 我们已经得到了
because we have what we want, which is climbing.
尽量节省开支可以让生活更轻松
It was easiest just to live as cheaply as we could.
后来我们决定搬进森林中的帐篷
And then we decided to just move into a tent in the forest.
我被他吸引
I was attracted to him
是因为他与我见过的所有人都不同
because he was so different than anyone I'd ever met.
他很不擅长社交
He was also super socially awkward.
但我不在乎 他就是这样
But I didn't care, cos, like, that's who he is
我就爱这样的他
and I love him for that.
-你好吗 -他来了
- Going on? - Look, there he is.
来得正好 我差点就走了
Your timing's perfect, guys. You nearly missed me.
他们叫我重装机器
They call me hevy duty.
这个绰号从1970年代就伴随着我
It's a nickname that's been with me since the early '703.
我现在应该叫轻型机器了 或者是老机器
I'm more like light duty now than hevy duty. Or old duty.
重装机器有点像是 斯阔米什攀岩圈的首领
Hevy is kind of, like, the mayor of squamish rock climbing.
他也是个呼啦圈专家
He's also, like, a hula hoop expert.
我去参加树林里的派对
我们聊了聊 一起玩了呼啦圈
我就这样认识了马克
我们聊起了他攀登过的线路
简直让人震惊 而他居然默默无名
我见过成千上万的年轻攀岩者
在网路上秀肌肉 吹嘘自己有多棒
现代世界有时很乏味 但马克属于另一个年代
他属于1980年代或1970年代 那个狂野的时代
好耶
他是个生错了时代的人 不是吗
所以他才如此特别 仿佛一缕清风
你看 这次成功了
你有什么招
I am the hoop guy.
Peter: Yeah, tell me about Marc-Andre'.
跟我说说马克安德雷
马克安德雷的故事我能说上一整天
I can tell Marc-Andre stories all day.
那就拜托了
Peter: Please do, yeah.
我对马克安德雷最初的记忆
My first memories of Marc-andré
（亚历克斯霍诺德）
was seeing him come running out of the forest in squamish,
是看见他从斯阔米什的森林里跑出来
赤着脚 没穿上衣
barefoot with no shirt.
刚刚打破了我的宏伟之壁速度纪录
He just broke my speed record on the grand wall
我心想“这家伙是谁啊 ”
and I was just like, "who is that guy?"
宏伟之壁可能是斯阔米什 最具标志性的线路
The grand wall might be the most iconic route in squamish.
（宏伟之壁 300公尺 纪录 亚历克斯霍诺德 59分钟）
I'd climbed it the fastest bottom to top.
我是登顶速度最快的人
速度纪录是一场比赛
Speed records are a game.
They're not the most important thing in climbing, but I do love speed records.
它不是攀岩最重要的部分 但我喜欢追求纪录
结果一个从没听说过的当地小孩 打破了我的纪录
And then this local kid, who I'd never heard of, did it faster.
我经常独自攀登那条线路
Marc: I was soloing the route quite regularly,
有次我决定看看 自己登顶要花多长时间
and one time, I just decided to see how long it would take me.
我登顶后看了计时器
I got to the top and checked the time,
发现比原本最快纪录快了两 三分钟
I was, like, two or three minutes faster than the established record.
然后亚历克斯霍诺尔德 突然回到了斯阔米什
And suddenly, Alex honnold came back to squamish
想要夺回我不小心打破的 宏伟之壁的纪录
to get his record back on the grand wall
that I had kind of, like, unintentionally broken.
我心想“这次必须用冲的”
I was like, "oh, man, I'm gonna go fast."
他彻底摧毁了我的纪录 只用了我一半的时间
He totally destroyed it. He cut my time in half.
我好像比他快了很多
Alex: I think I did quite a bit faster.
我沐浴在上帝的光芒中
让马克彻底死心 不再去挑战了
Enough so that it discouraged Marc from ever wanting to try again.
马克是个充满动力的攀岩者 他不在乎荣誉
Marc is a very, very driven climber, but he doesn't care about accolades.
甚至不在乎别人是否知道他的成就
He doesn't even care if anybody knows what he's climbing.
我是一个有体育背景的攀岩者
I've always approach climbing from an athletic background.
从小在攀岩馆里练习 把它当成一项运动
I grew up climbing in the gym and I think of it more as a sport.
但他在乎的 说是精神追求可能有点过了
But he cares about, I don't wanna say the spiritual component,
他在乎的是登山的体验 是这段旅程
but he cares about the experience in the mountains, and the journey,
他只想在山中度过一段好时光
and just wants to have a good time while he's out there.
我非常尊敬这一点
And I really respect that. It's a...
这显然也是 他成就如此卓越的原因之一
I mean, obviously, it contributes to him performing at such a crazy level.
我们第一次拍摄马克攀登 是他独自攀登宏伟之壁
Peter: The first climb we filmed with Marc
was a solo ascent of the grand wall.
拍摄徒手攀岩的过程总是令人紧张
It's always nerve-racking to film someone climbing without a rope.
但对于马克来说 这只是他的日常生活
But for Marc, this was just part of his daily routine.
单人攀岩的时候
Marc: When I'm soloing rock climbs,
我不想觉得自己在挑战极限
I don't really like to feel like I'm pushing myself.
这不是我独自攀岩的原因
That's not the reason for soloing rock for me.
我不想让自己觉得 我在做一件极限 可怕的事情
I don't like to feel like I'm doing something intense and scary or...
那你为何要独自攀岩
Peter: So then why do it?
为了体验一场轻松有趣的冒险
Like, more just to have a casual fun adventure
and... cruise around.
四处转转
看他攀岩时 他仿佛岩壁上的魔术师
Hevy: And when you watch him climb, he's just magic on the rock.
他很有格调 从不猛冲 非常精准
He's got style, he doesn't lunge, he's very precise.
一旦开始攀登
There's not the slightest margin for error
你就一点错误都不能犯 对吧
from the minute you set off, is there?
看着马克优雅地在岩壁上移动
Peter: Watching Marc move so beautifully up the wall,
我意识到这个傻气 低调的小子
it was clear this goofy, unassuming kid
绝对是一位攀岩大师
was a master of his craft.
我喜欢看他攀岩
Brette: I really love just watching him climbing.
马克是个非常冷静 非常稳定 很有控制力的攀岩者
Marc is a very calm and, like, steady, controlled climber.
马克 我想你了
Hey, Marco, I missed you.
我也想你了
Marc: Yeah, I missed you, too.
我明白他为何喜欢单人攀岩 因为我也喜欢
Brette: I get the fact that he wants to solo, because I love it, too.
单人攀岩时 你会感觉非常冷静
I'm feeling really, like, calm and good with soloing, too,
我等不及要开始攀登了
so I would be psyched on going and climbing...
它让你完全面对当下
It puts you directly in the present.
你没空思考其他任何事
You can't be thinking about anything else.
只能专心应对眼前的这一刻 随机应变
And you're interacting and improvising in the moment.
你必须掌控全局
And you're just in control.
认识布丽特后
Marc: When I first met brette,
她对我产生了巨大的影响
she definitely had a pretty big impact on me.
当时 我有点失去了对攀岩的热爱
At that time, I'd lost touch with the whole climbing portion of my life.
斯阔米什的派对文化非常浓厚
There is a really lively party scene in squamish.
大家都在疯狂派对
Definitely got hard into the partying.
一开始 我只是想试一试
At the beginning, it was pretty, like, basic experimentation,
体验一下各种心态 找找乐子
like, it was really fun to experience all these different states of mind.
派对与攀岩仿佛两条平行线
It's almost like a parallel to climbing.
我的朋友们喜欢谨慎地探索岩壁 而我会疯狂地探险
My friends like to explore a little bit, and sometimes I like to explore a lot,
派对也是这样
and it was the same with the partying.
大家都喜欢吃一颗药丸 一起共度好时光
Everyone would wanna take a tab of acid and hang out and have a good time,
而我会吞下六颗药丸 失踪20个小时
and I'd wanna take six tabs of acid and disappear for 20 hours.
我陷得太深 不嗑药就什么都做不了
But I got to the point where I felt like I couldn't really do anything
without taking drugs.
这种状态显然不太健康
Which isn't a healthy place to be.
我还记得
I remember that.
布丽特开始和我一起攀岩时
Marc: When brette and I started climbing together,
她总是全力以赴
she was just totally going for it.
与她相处让我回想起自己失去了什么
Hanging out with her reminded me of what I'd lost,
回想起那种精神饱满的状态
what it was like to be... spirited.
-很有趣 -超有趣的 对吧
- Brette: Fun. - Marc: Yeah, super fun, hey?
Brette: Yeah.
那时候 马克随时可能走上
I could see how Marc could have easily slid down that path,
瘾君子的不归路
the dark side of drug life.
-一路顺风 -谢谢你们
- Man: Have a good day, guys. - Marc: Thanks, guys.
马克喜欢极限的体验
Brette: Marc is interested in intense experiences
想要尽力活得充实
and living to the fullest.
从某种程度上说 毒品可以 提供这种体验 但它并不真实
Drugs can provide some version of that, but it's not genuine.
他最终意识到 攀岩才是真实的体验
And I think he recognized that climbing is the real experience.
-好样的 布丽特 -太酷了
- Marc: Nice, brette. - Brette: It's so cool.
对 多美妙啊
Marc: I know, isn't it beautiful?
-好有趣的线路 -你看吧
- What a fun route. - See?
对马克来说
Brette: I know for Marc,
在斯阔米什攀岩只是出于乐趣
rock climbing in squamish is all about having fun.
但马克更渴望单人攀登美丽 壮观的
But Marc's vision is more towards soloing big alpine faces
高山岩壁
on beautiful mountains.
他热爱高山 并且野心勃勃
He loves the mountains and he is definitely ambitious.
他想要提升前人的成绩
He wants to improve upon what's been done before
为高山攀登做出自己的贡献
to make his contribution to the history of alpinism.
高山攀登
Peter: Alpinism, the discipline of climbing big technical mountains,
这项攀登高难度山峰的活动
不仅是一项运动
is more than just a sport.
它是一种理念 经过了几代人的传承与发展
It's an ideal that has evolved over generations.
20世纪上半叶
In the first half of the 20th century,
大型探险队依靠大量设备与人力
large-scale expeditions used lots of equipment and manpower
征服了世界上最高的山峰
to conquer the world's highest peaks.
他们成功登上了狂风大作的世界屋脊
News reel: They stand victorious on the windswept roof of the world.
Peter: By the 1950s,
20世纪1950年代
人们关注的不再是登顶本身
it was no longer about getting to the top of the mountain,
而是登顶的方式
but how you got there.
（法国登山具乐部）
在欧洲的阿尔卑斯山脉
In the European alps,
登山的技术与理念都经历了革新
there was a revolution in climbing technique and philosophy.
更小的团队携带少量装备
Smaller teams using less gear
挑战更陡峭 更危险的岩壁
tackled steeper and more dangerous faces.
那是高山攀登的又一轮进化
Man: That was the next step in the evolution of alpinism.
更高的难度 更快的速度 还要更有型
Climbing harder, climbing faster and climbing in better style.
（巴里布兰卡德 高山攀登者）
一根绳索 一套保护器材 一个背包 这就是你的全部家当
A rope, a rack, and the pack on your back, that's all you get
你必须靠它们完成攀登
and you have to make it work with that.
回顾高山攀登的历史 你会发现
Woman: When you look through the history of alpinism,
攀登是一种自由的象征
climbing was a form of freedom.
不仅是身体上 也是心灵上的自由
It was physical freedom, but it was also a philosophical freedom.
（伯纳黛麦克唐纳 高山攀登者 历史学家）
而最终极的自由便是独自攀登
And the ultimate experience of freedom was to climb alone.
没有拘束 没有限制 孑然一身
Unfettered, unleashed, absolutely solo.
高水准的单人攀登是一种艺术表达
Solo climbing on a high level is an expression of art.
在最严酷的环境下生存的艺术
The art of surviving in the most crazy situations.
（莱因霍尔德梅斯纳 高山攀登者）
单人高山攀登也许是最纯粹 最具冒险精神的攀登方式
Peter: While solo alpinism may be the purest,
most adventurous form of climbing,
但它也是死亡率最高的
it's also the deadliest.
史上最著名的单人攀登者 大约半数在山上丧生
Maybe half of the leading solo climbers of all times died in the mountains,
这令人悲伤 也很难避免
and this is tragic and it's difficult to defend.
但这正是单人攀登的意义
But this is the philosophy.
要去冒险 就一定要面对难题
If you're going in an adventure, you need difficulties.
你需要危险
You need danger.
如果排除了死亡的可能性 生存也就变得毫无意义
If death was not a possibility, coming out would be nothing.
就像玩家家酒一样
It would be kindergarten.
那不叫冒险 也称不上艺术
But not an adventure and not an art.
（坎莫尔 加拿大阿尔伯塔省）
结束在斯阔米什的拍摄几个月后
Peter: A few months after our shoot in squamish,
我们跟随马克来到了加拿大洛基山脉
we followed Marc to the Canadian rockies
他为了世界知名的冰上攀岩场地而来
where he'd come for the world-renowned ice climbing.
每年总有段时间
Marc: There's always a point
我会希望冰上攀岩的季节快点到来
where I just cannot wait for ice-climbing season.
我已经准备好攀登结冰的瀑布了
I'm just ready to go climb frozen waterfalls.
冰上攀岩是高山攀登的重要技巧
Peter: Ice climbing is a crucial skill in alpinism.
多年来 它逐渐发展成一项 技巧要求极高的独立运动
Over the years, it's developed into its own highly technical sport
而坎莫尔的冰岩 就是冰山攀岩者的试金石
and the ice in canmore is a proving ground.
我们赶到时
By the time we arrived,
马克已经到了几个星期
Marc had already been there for a few weeks,
他在城外露营并攀岩
camping outside of town
and climbing things that had the locals talking.
引发了当地人的热议
我第一次听说马克安德雷时
Man: First time I heard about Marc-andré,
他正住在路旁的雪屋里
he was living in a snow cave on the parkway or something.
（威尔加德 冰上攀岩者）
他整天都在独自攀登各种冰上线路
And he was, like, soloing all these ice routes all day long.
我心想“这家伙真是火力全开 他正在挑战”
I was like, "here's somebody who's just going after it and pushing things
“以前无人知晓的极限”
that is pretty much unknown."
很少有人尝试单人冰上攀岩
Man: Ice climbing, solo, it's not something many people do.
你要在冰面上攀登
You're climbing frozen water
只能依靠凿进冰面几公分的
with just a few centimeters of your ice tools
冰镐和鞋钉
and crampons in the ice.
这种介质存在的时间很短
It's a very ephemeral medium.
你攀登的冰面几个星期前还不存在
Climbing something that wasn't there maybe a few weeks earlier
也许明天就会崩塌
and that might not be there the next day
（拉斐尔斯拉文斯基 冰上攀岩者）
if the thing you're climbing on decides to collapse.
不复存在
人们觉得我做单人徒手攀岩 已经很疯狂了
Alex: People think the free soloing that I'm doing seems crazy,
但我攀登的毕竟是岩壁
but what I'm doing is on rock.
它在很多方面是非常安全的 它非常坚实
It's safe in a lot of ways. The medium is super solid.
然后我看到马克安德雷 在冰雪中单人徒手攀登
And then I see Marc-andré free soloing on ice and snow.
攀登完全不同种类的岩壁 这展现了他丰富的经验
It just shows so much experience on such different kinds of terrain.
进攀岩这行这么多年
Man: In all my years of climbing,
我从没见过 像马克安德雷一样渴望攀登的人
I don't think I've seen another climber quite as hungry for it as Marc-Andre.
（乔恩沃尔什 高山攀登者）
他的心态比所有人都稳定
He's got this headspace that nobody else seems to have.
没有什么能让他慌乱
Nothing fazes him.
马克不光单人徒手攀登冰壁 他还会攀登混合线路
Marc doesn't just solo the ice, he goes out and solos mixed routes.
混合攀岩的理念是
Marc: With mixed climbing, it's the whole mentality
哪怕冰层还没冻到结实 你也可以去攀登
of the ice doesn't have to be fully formed to be climbed.
你不用把冰镐凿进冰面
Raphael: Instead of embedding your picks in the ice,
而是把它们挂在岩石的边缘
you're just kind of placing them on these little rock edges.
这让攀登变得更加危险
That adds another dimension of insecurity.
拍摄马克攀登并不牢固的岩壁 令人心惊胆战
Peter: Filming Marc on this insecure terrain was terrifying.
但他却怡然自得
But he couldn't have been more relaxed.
天啊 老兄
Peter: Holy shit, dude.
接着 他更进一步
Then he took it up a notch
单人攀登恶名昭彰的斯坦利后壁
by climbing solo on the notorious Stanley headwall.
（斯坦利后壁）
斯坦利后壁是 洛基山混合攀岩的不二之选
Marc: The Stanley headwall is the centerpiece of rockies mixed climbing.
这里的冰面断断续续
None of the ice is a hundred percent continuous.
有小冰球 冰柱还有冰锥
It forms in blobs, and pillars and hanging daggers.
你必须攀上陡峭 凸起的岩壁 才能到达冰面
You have to climb steep, overhanging rock just to get to the ice.
这让攀登的过程必须投入很大心力
And so it makes for really good, engaging climbing.
混合攀岩
Barry: There's a high degree of craftsmanship
需要非常高超的技巧
that has to go into the mixed-climbing equation.
破冰斧可以固定在狭窄的边缘上
The pick of an ice ax can hang on to just the smallest of edges.
但你不敢第一次就用全力
But you don't have nerves going to the end of the ice ax.
你必须不断评估 测试
You have to evaluate and test.
稳稳固定在岩壁上和猛地弹开
Raphael: The difference between having your pick solidly seated on a hold
也许只有咫尺之遥
and having that pick explode off of it is very, very small.
我没见过谁只能靠冰镐
Alex: I don't know if I've seen someone climb bare-handed with ice tools
在冰天雪地中随机应变
in the freezing temps, being able to improvise
又要徒手攀登岩壁 还要固定冰镐
between pulling on the rock and pulling on ice tools.
他灵活地运用各种超出常规的策略
He's just combining all these unconventional tactics.
马克独自登上了斯坦利后壁 我心想 “老天啊”
Barry: Marc soloing the Stanley headwall, it's just like, "wow!
“这种事我想都不敢想”
I never thought of that in my wildest dreams."
-感觉如何 -非常有趣
- Peter: How was it? - It was super fun. Yeah.
-害怕吗 -说不上
- Peter: Scary? - No, not particularly.
-就是普通的一天 -是非常美好的一天
- Peter: Just another day out? - A really good day out. Yeah.
值得纪念的一天
Definitely a memorable day out.
马克安德雷独自完成了各种线路 令人赞叹不已
Raphael: Marc-andré soloing those routes was pretty stunning.
我一听到消息就坐起来 说 “不是吧”
I think right there that made me sit up and go, "wow!
“这人是谁 ”
Who is this guy?"
（加拿大轮胎）
（加拿大皇家军团）
Marc: I grew up near a town called chilliwack.
我在一座名叫奇利瓦克的小城旁长大
（奇利瓦克 英属哥伦比亚省）
在奇利瓦克 你会习惯牛粪的臭味
In chilliwack, you become completely desensitized
to the smell of cow manure,
但它周围环绕着崇山峻岭
but it's surrounded by beautiful mountains.
小时候 我爸从事建筑行业
When we were growing up, my dad was doing construction jobs
我妈在餐厅当服务员
and my mom was serving in restaurants.
-你和你妈妈是不是特别亲 -对
Peter: Aren't you and your mom really close?
Yeah.
My mom, she's definitely been a big influence on me.
妈妈对我的影响非常大
挺难解释的
It's kind of hard to explain.
我们一直都是很要好的朋友
We've just been really good friends my whole life.
马克安德雷小时候 确实碰到了不少困难
Marc-Andre did have some challenges as a kid.
（蜜雪儿凯珀斯 马克的母亲）
He certainly didn't come into this world
他与这个世界
显得有些格格不入
as a square peg ready to fit into a square hole.
他被诊断出了注意力不足过动症
And he had a diagnosis of adhd.
他没办法长时间待在一个地方
So, he didn't sit still for very long
也无法融入常规的教育环境
and he didn't fit easily into the typical educational environment.
幼儿园的第一年挺棒的
Kindergarten was awesome, like, that first year.
可以搭积木 画画之类的
You build things out of blocks, and do art, and that kind of stuff.
但到了一年级 要坐在课桌前上课的时候
When it started into actual first grade, and we had to sit at our desks,
对我来说那就是酷刑
it turned into hell for me.
他是一个充满活力 热爱学习的孩子
For a kid who had a ton of energy, who loved to learn,
但他在学校里找不到学习的乐趣
he was losing his, his joy in learning, you know, to be in school,
所以我把他接回家 自己辅导了他一段时间
so I made the leap and I schooled him at home for a while.
我们会学习一段时间 通常是到午餐为止
We'd do some schoolwork for a while. Usually it would finish at lunchtime.
然后我们一起去做很酷的事
And we would do cool things together
比如探索森林 辨认植物
like go explore the forest and identify plants,
不用呆坐在课桌前
instead of just always sitting at your desk.
如果一个孩子不能自由地去探险
Michelle: If you're never given free rein to have little adventures as a kid,
他就永远无法了解自己是谁
you never really learn who you are,
了解自己的长处与短处
you don't learn what your strengths or your weaknesses are,
也无法了解自己的能力
and you never learn that you're capable.
她希望让我发现自己想要做的事
Marc: She wanted me to discover what I wanted to do
而不是为我选择一条人生道路
rather than pick out what she thought I should do with my life.
我们虽然不富裕
Michelle: We may not have had two cents to rub together,
但家里从不缺少书籍 马克安德雷是个贪婪的读者
but we always had books and Marc-Andre was a voracious reader.
他对冒险故事非常着迷
He was really captured by adventure,
所以我们家里堆满了那种书
so we had a house full of those kind of books.
他越是展现出兴趣 我就会给他更多的书
And the more interest he showed in them, the more books I provided for him.
当时我大概是八岁吧
I must have been, like, eight years old.
有一套很大一本的图画书 讲述了各种探险队的故事
It was this big, awesome picture book with stories from all these expeditions.
（生命自然图书馆 “群山”）
有一本关于高山探险的 总是让我目不转睛
And the ones about mountains always really captured my attention.
看着盖满雪的山顶的照片
Looking at pictures of big snowy peaks,
那些拿着冰镐的人 试着攀上顶峰
guys with ice axes trying to climb these things,
看起来非常
I don't know, it seemed really...
勇敢
Brave.
这些过去的攀登者深深激励了我
I was so inspired by all of these climbers of the past
我想要加入他们的行列
and I wanted to be a part of it.
继承这个传统
Like, carrying on the tradition or something.
一开始只是穿着牛仔裤和跑鞋
At first, it was justjeans, running shoes,
带着几根谷物棒
a few granola bars in the pocket.
从不走大路 从不用绳索
Always off trail, never had a rope or anything.
我有时也担心他会出事
Michelle: At times, I was concerned something could happen to him out there,
但他的方向感非常好
but he had a great sense of direction,
在野外时 他总是非常自信
and he was very confident when he was out and about.
一个人乱爬了几年以后
Marc: After, like, a couple of years of scrambling around by myself,
我很自然地开始练习攀岩的技巧
it just naturally progressed to technical climbing.
在山中冒险时
When I'm in the mountains on a big adventure,
生活是如此单纯
life is so incredibly simple.
我专心致志
I'm, like, totally focused.
感觉不到一丝紧张与焦虑
I don't feel that squirrel-brained, twitchy sort of stuff.
我感觉眼前一片清晰 感觉到镇定 感觉一切尽在掌控
And I have the feeling of clarity and calmness and control.
攀岩让我的人生走上了正轨
The whole climbing part of my life, everything was falling into place.
但接下来 我必须回去上高中
But then, like, I went back to school for high school.
他最后必须回到正规学校去上课
Michelle: He eventually had to go back to the standard curriculum at school.
对他来说 这如同落入牢笼
I think to him it was like a form of incarceration.
救救我
Help me!
他从不主动惹麻烦 但麻烦总会找上门来
Michelle: He was never looking for trouble,
but he certainly seemed to find it.
鞭炮要爆炸了
Firecrackers explode!
（“被刀打中的人” 马克安德雷勒克莱尔作品）
很显然 他永远不会适应朝九晚五的生活
Michelle: It was clear he was never going to get
a standard nine-to-five job or life.
他天生如此
He was never wired that way.
你好 我是马克安德雷 约瑟夫勒克莱尔 你也许听说过我
Hi, I'm Marc-Andre Joseph leclerc. You might have heard of me.
我刷过全世界最大的几面墙
I am doing some of the biggest walls in the world.
16岁毕业后 他靠粉刷墙壁赚钱
Michelle: When he graduated at 16, he was doing drywall, making some money.
他当时并没有明确的目标和计划
He didn't have a real clear purpose or plan at that point.
我对他说 “如果你真的想去搞攀岩”
I told him, "if you want to do this climbing thing,
“你还在等什么 ”
what are you waiting for?"
于是他就去了 马克安德雷终于可以自由地做自己
And off he went. Marc-andré found freedom to be himself.
他会一直向前 有多远走多远
He's going to go as far as he can take it.
-搞定了 -好的
- We got it! - Yeah, yeah.
-可不可以摆一个 -这样会很蠢的
- Can you just do a kind of blank...? - I'm gonna look like an idiot.
笑一个
Smile.
马克成为全职攀岩者的计划
Peter: Marc's plan to become a full-time climber
显然效果不错
certainly seemed to be working out.
He 'd recently landed his first sponsorship.
他刚刚拿到了第一份赞助
还有我们 正在为他拍摄电影
And here we were making a film about him.
-严肃一点 -非常严肃
- Peter: Serious. - Really serious?
Peter: Really serious, like your passport.
非常严肃 证件照那种
但马克对于摆姿势拍照 并没有多少耐心
Peter: But Marc had little Patience for posing.
他开始变得躁动不安
And he was getting restless.
就在我们计划下一次拍摄时 马克突然销声匿迹
As we were planning the next shoot, Marc just suddenly dropped off the radar
天知道他去了哪里
to who knows where.
为了保持联系 我们甚至帮他买了部手机
We'd even bought him a phone to keep in contact...
-抱歉 -但他不接电话
- Voicemail: I'm sorry. - But he wasn't picking up.
您拨打的用户没有设置语音信箱
Voicemail: The person you called has a voicemail box that has not been set up.
真是太让人沮丧了
Peter: It's just a frustrating situation.
马克就在某片荒野中
Man on speaker: You've got Marc somewhere in the backwoods.
他突然消失了 一个月没有联系我们
Peter: He just disappears and doesn't call us for months on end,
让我们在这里干等着
having all of us waiting and on hold.
大家都已经打包好行李了
Man: My bags are packed. Everyone's bags are packed.
如果马克再没消息 这次就不拍了
If we don't hear from Marc, we might not do the shoot.
我们开始在其他攀岩者的社群帐号上 看到他的身影
Peter: We started seeing him in other climbers' social media posts.
（干杯）
这是在崖上的第六天 也是风暴的第五天
It's day six on the wall and day five of the storm.
布丽特发布了一系列影片
Peter: Brette was posting these videos.
-马克 你在干什么 -我要把滑雪板钉在这里
- Brette: What are you doing, Marc? - I'll just get a t-slot my for skis
这样就能把布丽特放下去
so I can lower brette over this cliff.
Brette: Oh, man.
我们看着他们远征巴芬岛
Peter: We saw they'd gone all the way out to baffin island.
太美了
- Brette: This is so awesome. - Marc: Whoo!
接着 马克又去了苏格兰
Peter: Then Marc was in Scotland
接连完成了一系列单人攀登 仿佛在打九洞高尔夫
where he knocked off a string of solos like they were nine holes of golf.
-好的 -好的
- All righty. - All righty, then.
他状态正佳
他完成了一个又一个线路
他现在动力十足
马克心中燃着一团火
熊熊燃烧
有次我在南美洲攀岩
Alex: At one point, I was climbing in South America,
我们在一千多公尺高的悬崖上 看到了一个小小的斑点
we could see this tiny, tiny speck on this 4,000-foot wall.
我们看了一下 然后发现 那是马克安德雷在独自攀登
We could look over and be like, "that is Marc-Andre, by himself,
他又踏上了寻找上帝的旅程
on this fricking journey to the gods."
我心想 “这也太扯了 这种地方他都敢一个人爬”
I was like, "this is messed up. I cannot believe he's soloing that."
（马克安德雷完成超级挑战）
终于 我们听说马克回到了加拿大
Peter: Finally, we heard Marc was back in Canada,
正在偏僻的幽灵荒野攀岩
climbing in the remote ghost wilderness.
走投无路的我 联系了附近的一位电影人
In an act of desperation, I called a filmmaker from the area
请他去荒野中寻找马克的下落
to go into the backcountry and track Marc down.
发送者影业
他们弄丢了他们的攀岩明星
完全联系不上他
所以他们让我去找他
他找到了马克 马克和布丽特和一个朋友在一起
Peter: He shows up, and Marc is out there with brette and a friend,
攀登各种没人登顶过的
and they're putting up hard first ascents
巨大的高难度岩壁
on these huge walls,
玩得不亦乐乎
having the time of their lives.
好样的 布丽特
Nice, brette.
要掉了
Falling!
Whoo!
Brette: Hey, Marco, how is it down there?
-马克 下面怎么样 -很好
It's great.
好了
Brette: Here we go.
你们能帮马克拍电影 我觉得很酷
Brette: I think it's so cool that you're making a movie about Marc.
但老实说 他根本不在乎电影
But honestly, he doesn't care about movies.
他不会花费时间和精力
He's not gonna put the time and energy
让自己的攀登为世人所知
into making his own climb significant to the world.
他只是在忙着攀登
He's out climbing, he's too busy climbing.
天气真不错
Pretty incredible, the weather.
他和我们接洽过的其他攀岩者都不同
Nick: He's different than any climber we've ever dealt with.
他不和我们分享任何讯息
He doesn't share any information with us.
这让人苦恼 但也非常可敬
It's frustrating, but at the same, it's pretty noble.
马克只走他自己的路 他有着自由的灵魂
Marcjust kind of follows his own path. He's a free spirit.
这让我们很难规划未来的拍摄
And that can be difficult to plan around.
虽然有点奇怪 但这也让他显得更可爱了
Kind of makes him lovable in this weird way, you know?
他什么都不在乎
He doesn't give a fuck.
追着马克拍摄了这么久
Peter: This whole time, chasing Marc around,
我们都意识到 他正在筹划某个大动作
it was clear he was building up to something big.
但我们并不知道具体内容
But we had no idea what it would be.
直到看到新闻
Then the news broke.
（马克安德雷勒克莱尔 单人攀登皇帝壁）
He had made the first-ever solo of the emperor face on mount Robson.
他史无前例地单人攀登了 罗布森山的皇帝壁
（独自站在罗布森山顶）
And it sent shockwaves through the climbing world.
在攀岩圈投下了一颗震撼弹
听说马克单人登顶皇帝壁时
Man: When I heard that Marc had soloed the emperor face,
我的感觉就是 “老天啊 马克居然登顶了皇帝壁”
it was one of those like, "holy shit! Marc soloed the emperor face."
（吉姆埃尔金加 高山攀登者）
这真的非常了不起 可能是北美历史上
That is absolutely outstanding and probably the greatest solo ascent
最伟大的一次单人攀登
of anything that's been done in North America.
罗布森就是国王
Barry: Robson is the king.
它是加拿大洛基山脉的最高峰
It's the highest mountain in the Canadian rockies.
有三个酋长岩那么高
It's like three El caps.
罗布森山可不是优胜美地公园
But Robson is not yosemite.
它有冰川 有裂缝 有雪崩
It's got glaciation, it's got crevasses, it's got avalanche.
你要同时面对岩石 冰和雪
You're climbing rock, ice and snow all at the same time.
哪怕系着绳子 要登顶也是传说般的壮举
It's a legendary, mythical objective, even with a rope.
我有些气恼 马克完成了名垂青史的攀登
Peter: I was frustrated that Marc had made this historic ascent
却没有向我们透露他的计划
and he hadn't even let us in on his plan.
我们终于联系上了马克 询问其中的缘由
Eventually, we reached Marc and asked him why.
你们联系我 说要拍电影时
Marc: When you guys approached me about doing a film,
我觉得这会是很酷的经历
it seemed like a cool experience,
但我从没让你们过来拍摄 我真正的单人攀登
but I've never let you guys come and shoot one of my real solos.
为什么呢
Peter: Why not?
因为如果现场有别人 那就不叫单人攀登了
Marc: Because it wouldn't be a solo to me if somebody was there.
（马克安德雷勒克莱尔）
好吧 这么说也对
Yeah, I mean, I guess that's true.
身边有别人时 体验是完全不一样的
Marc: It's just a completely different experience if somebody comes with you.
就算他们不会协助你
Yeah, even if they don't help you.
那与我想要的冒险还是大相径庭
It just wouldn't even be remotely close to the adventure that I was looking for.
我唯一感兴趣的 就是孤身一人攀登
The only way I was interested was actually doing it fully by myself.
如果我完成了攀登 我愿意回去再拍摄一遍
And if that happened, I'd be ok to go back and film.
我已经拥有了这段美妙的体验 现在我准备与别人分享它
I had this really awesome experience.
Now, I'm actually ready to share it with people.
于是 马克邀请我们回到罗布森山
Peter: So Marc invited us back up to film on mount Robson
（罗布森山公园）
让我们亲眼见证 他是如何进行单人高山攀登的
so we could see first-hand his approach to solo alpinism.
对我来说 最棒的攀登
Marc: For me, the very best climbs
就是什么都不要带
are when you can walk up to a mountain with nothing
只靠自己的攀登技巧去面对山峰
except for your ability to climb, and that's it.
独自一人 与环境融为一体
Being by yourself out there, immersed in your environment,
倾听树叶的婆娑
tuning in to the rustle of the leaves...
风吹过山脊的声音
The sound of the wind across the Ridge,
注视山峰背后的光环
the aura that the mountain has.
对于重要的单人攀登 马克有几条简单的规矩
Peter: On his big mountain solos, Marc follows a simple set of rules.
他不携带任何通讯设备
He carries no communication device
尽管它们能在危机关头救他一命
that could be used as a lifeline if things go wrong.
而且都是初次攀爬
And he climbs on sight,
也就是说 他之前不会进行实地考察
meaning he's never been on the mountain before,
不会演练路线
never rehearsed the route.
他必须在攀登过程中评估一切
He has to figure it out on the fly.
高山攀登的黄金标准 就是初次单人攀登
Barry: The gold standard of alpinism is the on-sight solo.
攀登者来到山脚前 对这座山没有任何了解
A climber approaches a mountain without any prior knowledge
直接就开始攀登
and just climbs it.
但只有最优秀的攀登者 在状态最好的日子里可以尝试
But it's only for the very best climbers on their very best days.
这件事真的太危险了
You know, it's such a deadly game.
我的目标是让攀登过程尽量安全
Marc: The goal is to climb as safely as possible.
但当你踏入山中时
But when you step into the mountains,
有些事情是你自己无法掌控的
and there's stuff that's beyond your control.
你可以控制自己的行动
You control what you're doing,
但你无法控制山的行为
but you can't control what the mountain's doing,
在我心中 这绝对是最大的危险因素
and that's by far the biggest danger in my mind.
山在你的周围活动着 你的生死都被它掌控
The mountains are alive all around you and you're kind of at their mercy.
你必须考虑雪崩
You have to think about avalanches,
随时会落下的冰柱
seracs that can collapse at any time.
你必须学会阅读群山给你的信号
You have to learn to read the signals that the mountains are sending you.
冰雪的状态 何时会有光照
The conditions of the snow, the ice, what time of day is it gonna get sun,
还有天气对岩壁的影响 好像是在下棋
what the weather's gonna do. It's like a game of chess.
你有一个最终的目标
You have this ultimate goal,
但过程中一定会遇到预料之外的事
but then unpredictable things are going to happen.
我觉得与环境 群山的互动
I think that interaction with the environment, with the mountain,
是高山攀登最有趣的因素之一
is, like, a huge part of what makes alpine climbing so interesting.
如果你足够明智 做出了正确的选择
And if you're smart and you, like, make the right moves,
就能跨越重重阻碍 完成一次伟大的攀登
you can, sometimes against the odds, pull off a great climb.
人类能够体验的
One of the coolest feelings
最酷的感觉之一 就是在如此浩瀚的世界中
that a human can experience is, like, to feel so small
体会自己的渺小
in a world that's so big.
无拘无束地在山间穿梭
Barry: Moving over the mountain unencumbered
对于攀岩者来说 这是最为接近
is about as close as you're gonna come as a climber
张开翅膀自由飞翔的体验
to sprouting wings and being totally free.
完全清醒 充满生气
Absolutely awake, absolutely alive.
接收大山传来的各种信号
Receiving any kind of impulse that's coming in
并本能地做出反应
and reacting to it almost instinctively.
就像一场美妙的舞蹈
It's a great dance.
马克正在完成人们从不敢想像的事情
Jim: Marc is doing things that people thought could never be done.
他在重新定义人类的可能性
He's redefining what's possible.
这是高山攀登的进化
This is the evolution of alpinism,
它就在我们身边发生
and it's happening right now in our backyard,
就在这年轻人身上发生
and it's happening with that young guy.
但我当然很担心马克安德雷
But I am definitely concerned for Marc-Andre
还有其他推动单人攀岩极限的人
and anyone else pushing the limit of what's been accomplished soloing.
他身处的地点非常特别且受限
The place he is in is such a special, finite place,
风险极大
and such an incredibly risky place.
现在 马克安德雷不容有失
Marc-Andre is playing with a pretty heavy deck right now.
他在不断靠近悬崖边缘
He is walking relatively close to the edge in big environments.
我相信他可以成功完成很多次攀登
And I think he can do a fair amount of that and get away with it,
但总有一天
but sooner or later,
意外会发生
it's gonna bite him.
他因为单人攀登得到了人们的认可
He is gaining recognition because of his solo climbing,
这对他来说当然是好事 听到 读到 看到他的攀登事迹
and all of this is wonderful for him, and it's exciting to hear about,
也让我们无比激动
and read about and watch.
但 也许是我上年纪了吧
But... I mean, maybe it's just an age thing,
我总是觉得有点害怕 希望他能小心一点
but I find it a little bit scary.
I just... you know, I just hope he's careful.
他在山地环境中非常自在
He's really comfortable in mountainous terrain.
有时我觉得他可能过于自在了
Sometimes I wonder if he's just almost too comfortable.
人们可能会说 这样太疯狂 太不负责任
One could say that it's crazy and irresponsible
把自己放在那样的危险中 都是为了什么
to place yourself in that kind of danger for what?
Kicks, glory?
刺激 荣誉
单人徒手攀岩是一项 情绪性很强的活动
I think that free soloing is a very emotionally charged subject
所以它也会引发人们的强烈反应
and so it draws strong reactions from everybody.
如果你失手丧生 大家会觉得你是个白痴
If you fall and die, everybody thinks you're an idiot,
你就是个不怕死的莽夫 就是个傻瓜
you're a risk-taker, daredevil, like, "what an idiot."
如果你成功登顶 大家会把你当成英雄
If you succeed, everyone celebrates you as a big hero.
But the reality is you're the same person either way.
但你还是你 没有改变
说起单人攀岩 人们总是反应很激烈
Marc: People are always freaking out about soloing,
“这是没有必要的冒险 不该这么做”
"it's such an unacceptable risk. People shouldn't be doing this.
“要是有人模仿他们怎么办 ”
What kind of example does this set?"
我知道它很危险
I mean, I know it's dangerous.
我不会骗自己 假装单人攀岩不危险
I'm not, like, deluding myself that it's not dangerous to go soloing,
但也许 我看待事物的方式和大家不同吧
but I probably just have a different view of everything, I guess.
You know, like, to me, it's not really an unacceptable risk.
对我来说 这种风险是可以接受的
我还年轻 还有好多事想要去做
I'm still so young. There are so many things I wanna do.
我不可能不思考这些问题
I've really had to think about it within our own lives,
因为我们常常让自己
because we do put ourselves in situations
踏入随时可能发生意外的环境中
that anything could happen.
你随时可能被雪崩掩埋
Like, an avalanche could take you out randomly.
踏入这种环境的次数越多
The more times you put yourself in that situation,
意外发生的可能性就越大
the more likely it's gonna happen.
没错 他对单人攀岩的渴望 有时会让我担心
And yeah, sometimes it's concerning the amount of soloing he wants to do.
他有种无法满足的渴望 而且总想要挑战极限
He has an insatiable desire to do more at an extreme level.
我当然会担心他
I worry for him, of course.
（帕塔哥尼亚 阿根廷）
登顶罗布森山几个月后 马克动身前往帕塔哥尼亚
Peter: A few months after Robson, Marc set off for patagonia
南美洲的最南角
at the far southern tip of South America.
他的目标是完成 从未有人尝试过的攀登
His objective was a climb that had never been attempted.
在冬季单人攀登托雷艾格峰 这是这片山脉中难度最高的山峰
A winter solo ascent of torre egger, the most difficult peak in the range.
帕塔哥尼亚耸立着众多山峰
Patagonia's jagged summits
是高山攀登者们的试金石
are a proving ground for serious alpinists,
他们每年夏天都聚在查尔腾镇
who gather each summer in the village of El chaltén.
但到了冬天 严酷的风暴席卷山脉
But in the winter, the mountains are lashed by vicious storms
查尔腾也成了一座鬼镇
and El chaltén is a ghost town.
独自在冬季去帕塔哥尼亚登山
Jon: To go winter climbing in patagonia solo,
他显然又提升了一大步
he's definitely upping the game by a lot.
冬天去帕塔哥尼亚 真是想都不敢想
Going to patagonia in the winter! It's just mind boggling.
那里天气恶劣
Jon: The weather is horrific.
（全球最糟糕的天气）
Barry: Avalanche hazards can be extremely high.
雪崩风险极高
还要独自初次攀登托雷艾格峰
Jon: And trying to solo torre egger on sight.
登顶托雷艾格可是很多人的梦想
I mean, torre egger is a coveted peak.
有人把它视为 整个美洲难度最高的山峰
Some people consider it the hardest peak in the Americas.
有人问我 “你不担心他会有去无回吗 ”
Hevy: People ask me, "don't you worry he's not coming back?"
我摇了摇头
I just shake my head,
“马克会回来的 他有敏锐的第六感”
"Marc will be coming back. He's got this sixth sense."
独自攀登托雷艾格峰 一直是马克的梦想
Peter: Soloing torre egger had long been a dream of Marc's.
他显然不希望 带着一大群摄影人员前往
So he obviously didn't want a big film crew.
不过这次 他同意带上一名摄像师
But this time, he was willing to bring one cameraman,
他的登山搭档奥斯丁西亚达克
his climbing buddy, Austin siadak.
我会努力跟上他
I'm gonna basicallyjust try to keep up,
尽量记录路上发生的一切
tag along, and document as best as I can along the way.
我不想影响他的攀登体验
I don't wanna, like, impose on his experience.
（旅社）
奥斯丁会和马克一起在镇上休息整顿
Peter: Austin would hang with Marc in town
并拍摄开始路段的攀登过程
and shoot some climbing on the lower sections of the route.
但登顶前的冲刺会由马克独自完成
But for the summit push, Marc would climb alone
他会带上一台小摄像机 实时拍摄自己眼前的景象
and bring a small camera to capture what he could in real time.
对 这就是托雷艾格峰
Yeah, this is torre egger.
过去大半年我一直在想着它
I've been thinking about this climb for the better part of a year.
如果这里有冰层 可能会很快
If there's ice, it might be quick
可以直接登上这个冰塔下的冰谷
to go straight up this ice gully under the serac and then...
托雷艾格峰是一根 一千公尺高的石柱子
Torre egger is this 1,000-meter rock pillar
从冰川中拔地而起 中间还有一段冰雪覆盖的刃脊
rising up out of the glacier with an ice aréte in the middle.
岩石并不总是裸露在外 上面还有冰蘑菇
You know, not always perfect rock and capped with ice mushrooms.
我当然可以看着地图说
I could look at it on paper and be like,
“这在数学上是完全可行的”
"ok, like, this is totally mathematically, like, feasible."
但与此同时 我还是感觉有些奇怪
But at the same time, it still seems a little bit out there,
仿佛自己就要迈出攀岩生涯的下一步
like, "whoa, this is the next step for me."
过去一年我做的大部分事情
I spent the majority of the last year doing things
都是在为这次攀登做准备
that would prepare me for this climb.
许多次混合攀登和冰上攀岩
A ton of mixed climbing, and a ton of ice climbing,
然后是皇帝壁
and then the emperor face.
我做这些都是为了准备攀登艾格峰
It was all sort of preparation with egger in mind.
我看一下气象模型
Just gonna check weather models.
我每天会查看好几次模型
I check all these models multiple times a day.
周五早上开始起风 会有降水
Friday morning, the wind rolls in, with precip.
线越密 风就越大
When the lines are close together, that means a lot of wind.
山峰上现在狂风大作
The peaks right now are just getting nuked.
我们得在镇上等待有空档可以登山
We have to hang out in town and wait for a weather window.
独自在冬季来到这里
Coming down here by yourself in the winter time...
你必须融入查尔腾的生活
You become immersed in the El chaltén life.
和当地人相处
Hanging out with the locals.
他们会把你当做家人
And they're making you part of the family.
这也是登山体验的重要部分
Yeah, it's actually like a big part of the whole experience.
我认识世界各地的优秀攀登者
马克绝对是独一无二的
他非常谦逊
（胡戈阿科斯塔 攀岩者 旅社老板）
永远积极向上 非常平和
无论面对什么 都带着热爱
群山仿佛让他的心灵得到了升华
我在查看最新的天气预报
Marc: Just checking the latest meteogram.
周二 周三似乎天气不错
Looks good, like, Tuesday, Wednesday.
-这意味着什么 -我们要上了
- Austin: What does that mean? - Means we're going climbing.
独自攀登这些高山的难点之一
Part of the crux of soloing in these mountains
就是你必须携带大量设备
is the amount of stuff that you have to carry.
非常重
It's pretty heavy.
你必须把所有行李背在背上
Like, when you have to put everything on your back
驮着它独自攀登
and just, like, solo with the pack on.
这个包裂了个缝 我把它贴起来了
This bag, like, ripped open. I've taped it shut.
隔热性能丧失了一半 但它也变得超级轻便
It's lost half its insulation. It just means it's even lighter.
更加轻便了
It's even more super light.
准备上山前 你都会吃什么
我不想显得冷酷无情 我也不相信宿命论
Well, I don't wanna sound grim or fatalistic,
但你不能否认 每次上山
but it's, you know, undeniable that every time you go to the mountains,
都可能是最后一次
it could be your last time,
所以你必须感激你爱的一切
so all these things that you love you have to appreciate.
你希望自己的最后一顿晚餐是什么
Whatever dinner you'd want to possibly be your last dinner,
就去吃什么
you have to eat it.
因为你要上山了
Cos you're going to the mountains.
对
Yeah.
这是一场简单的游戏
Reinhold: The whole game is very simple.
我们去一个不该去的地方
We go somewhere that we should not go.
连直觉都在告诉我们 “不要去那里”
Where our own instinct is telling us, "do not go there."
可能会发生很多意外
Many things can happen.
我们可能坠落
We can fall.
可能被风暴卷走
The storm can take me away.
我们知道自己可能死在山上
We know that we could die up there.
但我们还是要去
But still, we go there.
我们努力实现自己的梦想
We try to make real our dreams.
实现我们的憧憬
Our visions.
这次攀登在我脑海里模拟了一整年
Marc: I had spent a whole year imagining this climb,
我觉得自己有足够的技巧
and I felt like I had the skills to do it,
但我必须使出全身解数
and it would require all of them.
但我并不熟悉路线
But I don't know the route whatsoever.
不知道是否会顺利 不知道会发生什么
No idea how this is gonna go. Like, no idea what to expect.
现在的情况有点严峻
Conditions are definitely tough right now.
你可以看到我踩出的路
You can see my trail there.
我简直是在壕沟中挖路
I was literally digging through a trench,
积雪有胸口这么高 顶上盖着坚硬的雪板
through chest-deep snow with wind slab on top,
冰谷的悬冰川上可能也有
and I think there could be a lot of this kind of snow
类似的积雪
on the hanging glacier in the gully.
这不光让攀登变得艰难
And not only is it really hard work,
还可能会引发致命的雪崩
I think avalanche conditions could be quite dangerous.
我要去查看一下岩石的状况
So I'm gonna go over and see how the rock is
看看情况如何
and see if that goes.
起始路段的岩石都覆盖着积雪 让我花费了很长时间
I started on really snowed-up rock, which took quite a long time.
完成了两段 还是挺凶险的
Well, two pitches of climbing and it's kind of heinous, actually.
这是我的足迹
Here's my tracks.
我必须沿着那个冰塔爬上去
I have to go tack along the edge of that serac
在顶上扎营
and bivvy on top of it.
攀爬十分艰难 进展缓慢 情况很恶劣
The climbing was hard and slow. Conditions were awful.
路线应该在这边
I think the route goes up there.
我经常需要脱下手套
I had to keep taking my gloves off.
手都被冻僵了
My hands were numb because of the cold.
就要到冰川顶部了
Almost on top of the glacier.
难度还是很大的
Definitely challenging so far.
我正在把背包拉上来
There's my backpack that I'm hauling up.
看看我的手
Check out my hands.
手指都流血了 真是困难重重
My fingers were bleeding and everything was just kind of gnarly.
我到了悬冰川的顶端
Well, here I am at the top of the hanging glacier
准备在这里过夜
and I'm settled in for the night.
我本来希望再走六段
I originally hoped to be six pitches higher than this
在雪刃脊上过夜 我的进度有些落后了
on the snow aréte. Not going as fast as I wanted to.
向左离开悬冰川
You split left off of that hanging glacier
就会来到东峰中部的雪刃脊
and that brings you to the snow aréte in the middle of the east pillar.
已经走了挺长一段了
I've come a good ways now.
这是原计划昨天要到达的雪刃脊
Here's the snow aréte that I wanted to make it to yesterday,
人算不如天算
but, you know, it just goes how it goes.
这是上面的后壁 我们走着瞧吧
There's the upper headwall, so we'll see.
我也许可以继续前进 哪怕要多在山上住一晚
I might be able to keep going even if I have to make one extra bivvy,
比计划中多扎一次营
one more than planned.
你必须在靴子 冰爪和攀岩鞋之间 不断切换
You're switching constantly between boots, crampons and rock shoes.
你上一秒还在用冰镐
You'll climb an ice pitch
下一秒就要攀登5.10难度的岩柱
and then all of a sudden, you're on a rock pillar climbing 5.10.
或者是在
Or mixed climbing
结冰的窄沟中混合攀登
through some narrow gully filled with ice.
所有本事都得用上
It's just, like, everything in the repertoire.
我到了上面的斜坡
Well, I'm in the upper ramp,
看看来时的路
looking down the route.
Whoo!
某一个瞬间 你会觉得 “这下是来真的了”
When you encounter a situation where you're like, "ok, this is real.
“我要嘛集中精神继续前进”
I can either keep it together and do this
“要嘛彻底崩溃”
or I can, like, fall apart and have a meltdown."
你必须在两者中做出选择
You gotta do one or the other.
你必须分析情况
And that process of evaluating the situation,
打起精神 继续坚持
and then getting it together, and carrying on,
每次都是巨大的挑战
it's a challenge every time.
我还在坚持 越来越顺利了
Well, persevering, and things are working out.
风景真不错
Quite the view.
我正在后壁的中间
I'm literally in the middle of the headwall.
我清理出一小块空地 今晚就睡这
I'm stomping out this sick little platform to sleep on,
我只找到了这一处露营地 超酷的
the only place I could find to bivvy, which is super cool.
我今晚肯定会冻得要死 不过没关系
I'm gonna freeze my ass off tonight, that's for sure, but that's ok.
昨天我进展缓慢 困难重重
Yesterday, progress was so slow and difficult
让我有点泄气 不过现在我的状态很好
that it was kind of discouraging, but now I'm in a really good position
明天一早就可以冲击顶峰 只剩下几段路了
to go for the summit tomorrow morning. I'm only a few pitches away.
只要天气正常 我非常期待明天
So as long as the weather holds, I'm psyched.
嗨 布丽特 这段影片送给你
Hey, brette, this video's for you.
我只是想
I just wanted to, uh...
让你知道 当我独自上山的时候
Let you know that when I'm out here in these mountains by myself,
我非常想你
I really miss you.
我总是想起你
And I'm thinking about you a lot,
我心里的某个部分
and there's a part of me that...
希望我能快点回到地面
Wishes I could just quickly rap to the ground,
离开这里 改变航班
and get out of here, and change my flights,
回去见你 因为我想要
and come back and see you, cos I'd love to...
只想见到你
Just... yeah, see you.
我爱你
I love you.
我大约在凌晨五点醒来
I woke up at around five in the morning,
往睡袋外面看了一眼 一场风暴正在形成
peeked outside my sleeping bag. A full snowstorm was starting.
现在我必须尽快收拾东西
Now, I just have to pack up as quick as I can
在暴风雪中速降到山脚下
and rappel the whole mountain in blizzard conditions.
希望一切顺利 因为下山的路漫长又复杂
I hope it goes well, cos it's a long and complicated way down.
老天啊
Holy shit!
我回到了帐篷
Well, I'm back in my tent.
很遗憾 我没能登顶
I am sorry to say that I did not reach the summit.
但我活下来了
But... I survived,
我觉得这也很了不起
which I think counts for a lot.
有点扫兴 我离山顶只剩四段路了
Kind of a bummer, cos I made it within four pitches of the top.
但这可能仍然是 我最棒的一次单人攀登
It was still probably one of my very best solo efforts in the mountains,
我坚持不懈 几乎到达了终点
just in terms of sticking with it and coming really close, and...
你知道 我总是说
And, you know I always said...
我一直梦想着单人攀登艾格峰
Cos I've always dreamed of trying to solo egger
我也说过
and I always said
如果你在艾格峰山顶附近碰上坏天气
that if you got caught in bad weather near the top of egger by yourself,
那就是最可怕的噩梦 结果我真的碰上了
that's the ultimate nightmare, and it actually happened to me,
但我还是安全下山了 所以这还挺酷的吧
and I made it down just fine, so... That's kind of... that's cool, I guess.
听到马克安全下山的消息 我松了一口气
Peter: I was relieved to hear that Marc had made it back down.
在经历九死一生后 我以为他会直接回家
And after such a close scrape, I figured he would just fly home,
尽管没有成功 但是安全归来
unsuccessful, but safe.
那次攀登居然让我这么疲惫 真是想不到
Well, it's amazing just feeling how tired I am from that climb.
但马克不愿放弃
Peter: But Marc couldn't let it go.
他从天气预报上 看到了另一个攀登机会
He saw another weather window in the forecast,
但这次比上一次时间更短
this one even shorter than the last.
周五只有半天的好天气
Marc: And on Friday, you have half of a good day,
整晚都没问题
and overnight's good.
于是他决定再次尝试
Peter: And he decided to go for it, again.
这次 他提高了难度
This time, he was raising the stakes.
因为我已经了解了路线 我觉得我能在一天内完成
Marc: Because I already know the route, I decided I could do the route in a day
不用携带露营设备
without carrying any bivvy equipment.
这样我就不能在山上过夜
But I won't have the option of sleeping up there on the mountain.
我必须轻装上阵 迅速完成攀登
I have to go really light and move fast in order to get it done.
来吧
Here we go.
第二次尝试时 马克只带了一个小包
Peter: For his second attempt, Marc would carry just a small pack
没有睡袋 没有应急食品
with no sleeping bag, no extra food.
只有基础的工具 轻装上阵
Just the basic tools to climb light and fast.
他当晚开始攀登
Starting the climb that night,
希望在下一次风暴袭来之前
he hoped he could get to the summit and back down
登顶并返回
before the next storm crashed in.
祝你好运 马克
Austin: Good luck, Marc!
现在是早上5点45分 我回到了上次的第一个扎营点
Marc: Well, it's 5:45 in the morning and I'm back at my first bivvy site
悬冰川的顶端
on top of the hanging glacier.
我只花了两个小时就到了这里
It's only taken me a couple of hours to get here.
开局很顺利
So, yeah, off to a good start.
我决定展开这一场
I'm just going for it,
雄伟山脉中的小小冒险
just this tiny little adventure on this huge mountain.
太阳出来了
Well, the sun's rising.
看看这惊人的美景
Check out how incredible this is.
我的路程已经过半了
I'm more than halfway up the route already.
我到了上面的斜坡
Well, I'm in the upper ramp.
一切都很顺利
Things are working out.
我到了艾格峰的山顶
I'm on the summit of egger!
太激动了
Super psyched!
Whoo!
快看啊
Yeah, look at this!
我的老天
Holy smokes!
单人攀登托雷艾格峰
To solo torre egger
似乎完美地结合了 我学会的所有技巧
seemed like the perfect combination of everything I'd learned how to do.
是一场全方位的考验
仿佛我的整个人生 都在为了来到这里做准备
It's almost like my whole life leading me to a certain place.
好样的 兄弟
Austin: Nice work, dude.
Yo.
嗨
-你好吗 -感觉如何
- How's it going, dude? - Austin: How do you feel?
-完美 -兄弟 太厉害了
- Austin: Perfect. - Dude, yeah, things are awesome.
只有到了干杯的那一刻 高山攀登才算完整
No alpine ascent is truly complete until the beers go clink.
-干杯 -干杯 兄弟
- Cheers. - Cheers, man.
这就是登上了托雷艾格峰的人 马克
你长大后 会无数次登顶托雷艾格峰的
When you grow up,
-要回美国了 激动吗 -我非常期待见到布丽特
Austin: Psyched to be going back to states?
Yeah, I'm super stoked to see brette
然后回到加拿大 与家人团聚
and eventually see the family back up in Canada.
There's the taxi.
计程车来了
我得跟他谈判一下 我身上没有披索了
I have to negotiate, cos I don't have pesos.
马克从山中回来时 他身上总是散发着巨大的能量
Brette: When Marc comes out of the mountains,
he has this, like, radiating energy.
他刚刚经历了极限的环境
He's had some sort of extreme experience
这对他带来的影响 是其它任何经历都无法比拟的
that had moved him deeper than anything else could have.
带着目标上山时
Marc: When you're in the mountains with a mission,
生活中那些很肤浅的东西 仿佛都消失不见了
it's like all the superficialities of life just sort of evaporate,
你的心理层面会达到更高的境界
and you can often find yourself in a deeper state of mind,
在重要的攀登结束后 这种心境还会保持一段时间
and that can stick with you for a while after a big climb.
你会无比感激身边的一切
You appreciate everything so much
那些你平时觉得理所当然的事物
that you take for granted most of the time.
说来好笑
It's kind of funny.
达成这些目标并不会对你的人生
The actual achievement doesn't really change your life
产生预期中的巨大影响
like you think it might, when you're building up to it,
但你收获的是达成目标的过程
but what you're left with is the journey that got you to that point
当你走过这段漫长的旅程
and if you have this big journey
解决各种问题
where you had to figure a lot of stuff out,
细心规划 全心投入
and you had to plan, and it was more immersive,
当你长时间被美景环绕
and then you were somewhere really beautiful for a long time,
拼命努力
and then had to work really hard,
克服心理上的障碍
and overcome some kind of mental barrier,
你会收获一段更加珍贵的故事 一段回忆 一次体验
you're left with so much more of a story
or, like, a memory and an experience.
我发现这才是最重要的
And that's what I find is the most important.
拍摄马克的这两年
Peter: For two years filming Marc's climbs,
仿佛就是不可能的任务
it was like trying to capture lightning in a bottle.
现在 是时候完成电影的制作 把马克放回野外了
Now, it was time to assemble the film and release Marc back into the wild.
他还有好多山要去爬
He still had so many mountains to climb.
好 布丽特 我安全了
Ok, brette, I'm secure!
嗨
Hey, dude.
我以为故事会在这里结束
Peter: And that is where I thought this story would end.
但在我们剪辑期间
But while we were editing,
马克在阿拉斯加的朱诺市 等待攀登时机
Marc chased a weather window up to Juneau, Alaska,
他遇到了当地的一位优秀攀登者
where he met up with a strong local climber,
莱恩强森
Ryan Johnson.
他们合作攀登 带着绳索 第一次从北坡
Climbing as a team, with a rope, they made a first ascent
登上了门登霍尔峰
on the north face of the mendenhall towers.
山顶可以收到手机讯号
At the summit, there was cell reception.
所以马克发了讯息 给他的妈妈和布丽特
So Marc sent text messages to his mom and to brette.
（为您带来罕见的实况报道 远处就是费尔韦瑟山）
（亲爱的 我登顶了 一次精彩的攀登）
莱恩则给女友发了一段影片
And Ryan sent a video message to his girlfriend.
嗨 宝贝 想看看山顶的风景吗
Hey, babe, figured why not be up here with me?
-这是马克 -对
- Marc, right there. - Yeah.
Ryan: Pretty amazing up here.
这里太美了
下山还有很长的路要走 我们得出发了
We've got a long way to get down, so we're gonna get to it.
下山的路看起来不太轻松
Marc: The descent does not look straightforward.
但第二天早上 没人收到他们的消息
Peter: But by the next morning, nobody had heard from them.
布丽特当时在塔斯马尼亚岛的帆船上
Brette was on a sailboat off the coast of tasmania.
她第一个意识到 他们没有即时报平安
She was the first to realize they were late to check in.
她联系了搜救小组 登上了最快的航班
She contacted search and rescue, took the next flight out,
到达阿拉斯加后 她打了电话给我们
and called us when she landed in Alaska.
他们没有回去
-该死 -我也不知道 皮特
- Peter: Fuck! - Yeah, so I don't know, Pete.
-真抱歉 -我不知道该怎么办
- I'm so sorry. - I don't know what to do.
我不知道会发生什么 可能发生什么
I don't know what's gonna happen or what would happen if...
斯阔米什的一位攀岩者 在阿拉斯加失踪
A climber from squamish has gone missing in Alaska.
马克安德雷勒克莱尔与另一位攀岩者 于3月4日后失踪
Marc-Andre leclerc and another climber were last seen on march 4th.
我们跟随布丽特来到朱诺
Peter: We followed brette up to Juneau
在搜救办公室见到了马克的家人
and met Marc's family at the search and rescue office.
（高山救援）
马克在斯阔米什的几位朋友 也赶来协助搜救
Some of Marc's friends from squamish had come along to help with the search.
但风暴袭来
But a storm had rolled in,
直升机无法进山
so nobody could get a helicopter in there.
我们只能等待天气好转
All we could do was wait for the weather to break
希望他们依然在山上坚持着
and hope that somehow, they were still alive up there.
度过了备受折磨的四天后 天气终于转晴
After four agonizing days, the weather finally cleared enough
搜救队可以驾驶直升机 前往他们失踪的区域
for search and rescue to fly a helicopter into that zone
观察他们下山的路线
and get visuals of their descent route.
地面覆盖着新雪 无法安全降落
With all the new snow, conditions were too dangerous to land there,
但他们看到了一根绳索
but they spotted a rope.
它被掩埋在雪崩的路径上
It was covered in avalanche debris
很显然 马克和莱恩也被埋在这里
and it was clear that Marc and Ryan were buried there.
没有生还的可能
There was no chance of survival.
我们希望能寻回他们的遗体
Brette: We were hoping to do a recovery of their bodies but...
但未能实现 他们消失在了冰川中
It didn't happen. They just disappeared into the glacier.
我记得自己坐在冰原上 想着
I remember sitting out there on the ice field and wondering, like,
“我为什么没有陪他去 ”
"why wasn't I with him?"
Like, I felt I should've been there.
我觉得我应该在场
我从没想过 生活会让人这么痛苦
I didn't even know that life could be that painful.
直到经历过 你才会相信这种痛苦是存在的
I didn't even know it existed until you experience it.
我们一直过着无忧无虑的美好人生
It's like we're kind of living in this blissful magical life,
然后你突然被一阵剧痛击中
and then you're hit with this shockwave of pain,
再也无法复原
and you'll never be the same.
他死后 我变得什么都不在乎
After he died, I just didn't care about anything.
一切都不重要了
Nothing mattered.
也许我也该随着他一起消失
Maybe I would just disappear also.
但后来 我想起了马克和我的一段对话
But then I remembered this conversation that I had with Marc.
马克说 如果他出了意外
Marc said that if something happened to him,
他希望我继续前进
he wants me to keep going.
他不希望我为此消沉
He didn't want me to lose my spirit.
他希望我继续攀登 继续热爱生活
He just wanted me to keep climbing, keep loving life,
开心地活下去
and be happy. Yeah.
你不知道这有多难
You have no idea how hard it is.
道理大家都懂 但真的做起来
In theory you can say it, but to actually be living that...
我回到了阿拉斯加
I went back to Alaska.
那里风景如画
It's so beautiful there,
但没有他在身边 一切都令人难受
but being there without him felt so awful.
你就在那里
我背负着太多痛苦
I was in so much pain
唯一能逃离这些痛苦的时候
and the only time I could feel an escape from that
就是在山里
was being in the mountains.
我常常回到我们一起攀登过的地方
I keep returning to these places we climbed together.
到处都是他的痕迹
They are infused with him.
我发现了一个岩锥 肯定是马克的
I came upon this piton and I'm certain it's Marc's.
我感觉你就在身边 马克
I feel like you're here, Marc.
我非常想念他 想念我们的冒险
I just miss him so much, like, I miss our adventures together.
多希望我们还能一起来这里
但我知道 你会希望我一个人来
But I know that you'd want me to be here
我知道你会为我骄傲
and I know that you'd be proud.
谢谢你让我看到你的世界
谢谢你与我分享一切
他总是这么笑
Just his typical smile.
Yeah.
你们的笑容很像
Peter: You guys have a similar smile.
我只能一天一天地过
Michelle: How I'm doing is a day-to-day thing.
没了马克安德雷
Without Marc-Andre, yeah,
就好像宇宙突然出了某种故障 无法修复
it was like something was suddenly and irrevocably wrong with the universe.
这世界不该是这样
It was, like, that's just not how it should be.
很抱歉
I'm sorry.
恍恍惚惚中 你仿佛来到了另一个星球
In some indefinable way, you've moved to another place
必须学会在这里生活
and you have to learn how to live there.
事故发生几个月后
Peter: A few months after the accident,
亲友们从世界各地来到斯阔米什 共同缅怀马克
friends came to squamish from all over the world to celebrate Marc.
我从阿根廷的帕塔哥尼亚来到这里 参加马克的缅怀仪式
他让我们都留下了美妙的印象
不会有第二个马克安德雷勒克莱尔
他是独一无二的
He was one of a kind.
没人第二个人能像他那样了
He was an individual individual.
他放出耀眼的光芒
He just burned very bright
在短暂的时光里 在人们心中留下了难以磨灭的烙印
and he left an indelible Mark on a lot of people in a short time, didn't he?
好多人啊
Wow, there's a lot of you.
每个家长都知道 抚养孩子是一项艰难的任务
As any parent knows, raising children is a tough job,
但我很庆幸
but I am thankful
上帝至少让我懂得
that at least god granted me the grace to understand this about my son,
不去阻挡他对群山的热爱
to not stand in the way of his passion for the mountains.
我当然也担心过
Michelle: Of course, I worried.
当自己辛苦养大的孩子就要离开自己
What mother doesn't worry about the children she's raised
走进美丽 危险
to leave her and go out
又摇摇欲坠的世界时 哪个母亲会不担心呢
into this beautiful but dangerous and broken world?
It's so exposed.
太暴露了
我相信 马克安德雷 度过了他想要拥有的人生
Michelle: I believe Marc-Andre lived the life he was intended to live.
他天生就该攀登群山
That he was meant to scale mountains,
站上顶峰 深入寂寥的峡谷
stand on summits, find his way into lonely valleys...
太开心了
Super happy.
并全心全意地爱上一个女人 他的小布
Michelle: And love one woman with all his heart, his little b.
-你好吗 布丽特 -好冷啊
- How are you, brette? - It's pretty chilly.
托尔金在“哈比人”中写道
Michelle: Tolkien in the hobbit says,
“在这个地方 没有一条路是安全的”
"there are no safe paths in this part of the world.
“你已经跨过了荒野的边缘”
You're over the edge of the wild now."
快看啊
Marc: Oh, yeah, look at that.
马克安德雷 现在你真的跨过了荒野的边缘
Michelle: Well, Marc-Andre, you are truly over the edge of the wild now.
风暴袭来 刮起猛烈的北风
Marc: The storm came in with a strong north wind.
我希望那里有壮丽的山峰 美妙的落日
Michelle: I hope the mountains there are amazing and the sunsets are beautiful.
暴风眼从这里经过后 一切又归于平静
Marc: And then it cleared for a bit as the eye of the storm passed over us.
有你这个儿子 兄弟 伙伴和朋友 我们的人生都更加完整
We are all richer for calling you son, brother, partner and friend.
Whoo!
Michelle: Thank you for giving us 25 remarkable years.
谢谢你给我们留下了难忘的25年
老天啊
Holy fuck!
Whoo!
作为朋友与拍摄者 深入地了解了马克之后
Peter: Having come to know Marc as a friend, as well as a climber...
我很难接受他的攀登理念
It's hard to reconcile the idealism of his ascents
带来了这样的悲剧结尾
with the tragic consequences.
因此 高山攀登在我心中 依然充满了矛盾
That's why alpinism remains such a contradiction in my mind,
谜题仍未解开
such a mystery.
但我相信马克度过了美好的一生
But I believe what Marc did with his time on earth was beautiful.
他一直追随着自己的梦想
He followed the course of his own dreams.
我们很多人都有自己想做的事
Michelle: A lot of us live our lives thinking of the things we'd like to do
想要踏上某场冒险 却踌躇不前
or the adventures we'd like to have, but we hold back.
这正是马克安德雷的旅程的过人之处
That's what really stands out to me about Marc-Andre's journey.
如果你有机会
It's about what is it that you would do
征服曾被你视为极限的难关
if you were able to overcome the things that you see as limitations
直面你内心的恐惧
or the things that you're afraid of?
你会怎么做
You know, what would you do?
（马克安德雷勒克莱尔 生于1992 卒于2018）